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The sixth arrondissement of central Paris is located on the
Left Bank of the Seine River. Its area slightly exceeds a
square mile (over 2 square kilometers) with a population of
45,000 and slightly fewer jobs. Like its neighbour, the 5th
arrondissement, the 6th is often known as the Quartier
Latin although it’s been a long time since
many have spoken Latin in either district. Its best-known
part is the famous Saint-Germain-des-Pres, which in the
years following World War II was the intellectual center of
the world; home to philosophers such as Jean-Paul Sartre
and Simone de Beauvoir. Later on we’ll talk about the
district’s world-famous cafes that they frequented.

On the subject of intellectuals, this arrondissement is
home to l’Academie Francaise (the French Academy), the
watchdog over the French language. For what it’s worth I’m
a strong believer in keeping the French language French and
avoiding Franglais. The Academy was founded in 1635 by
Louis XIII’s chief minister, Cardinal Richelieu. It was
suppressed by the French Revolution but brought back by
Napoleon. The academy is an advisory body with no power to
punish the many people and institutions that disrespect the
French language. It holds only forty seats, some of which
may be vacant waiting for a candidate acceptable to the
sitting members. Normally membership is for life but some
malfaiteurs (wrong doers) have been expelled; for example,
given their association with the collaborationist Vichy
regime during World War II.

Since its inception the Academy has only greeted four
female members, starting with the writer Marguerite
Yourcenar elected in 1980. Some very famous writers such as
Moliere, Zola, and Proust never achieved membership. Male
members, except for clergy, get to wear a sword with their
Academy outfit. In 1778 the Academy initiated a historical
dictionary of the French language. It abandoned the project
before getting to the Bs. The Academy’s dictionary is
partially in the ninth edition. The Academy Francaise has
been fairly successful in persuading people to use French
words such as logiciel instead of the corresponding English
words, in this case software. It rules on grammar issues
and offers prestigious prizes in literature, cinema,
translation, and other fields.

The Cafe de Flore on the Boulevard Saint-Germain is a
historic intellectual cafe and offers an annual literary
award. The nearby cafe Les Deux Magots named for two wooden
Chinese statues near the entrance is also a literary and
intellectual center with its own annual literary award. It
has been decades that these cafes are too expensive for all
but the wealthiest intellectuals.

The French Senate is the upper house of the French
Parliament. Until recently senators were elected for
nine-year terms, but now their terms have been reduced to
six years. Senators are not elected by the general public
but by one hundred fifty thousand local elected officials
such as mayors and city councilors. The Senate tends to be
more conservative than France’s lower house, the National
Assembly. Besides proposing bills and voting on them the
Senate publishes reports and so serves to monitor the
government. The senate sits in the beautiful Palais du
Luxembourg (Luxemburg Palace) in back of the Jardin du
Luxembourg (Luxemburg Gardens) the largest garden in the
city. The garden is open to the public and is a favorite of
young children and their parents.

If you are looking for a hotel in the sixth district you
might consider the Art Deco Hotel Lutetia, built by the
neighboring Bon Marche department store in 1910. Its guest
list included Charles de Gaulle and Pablo Picasso. At the
outbreak of World War II many artists and musicians took
residence there but after France surrendered the hotel
housed German military officers. Following the liberation
of Paris in August, 1944 this hotel became a repatriation
center for prisoners of war and concentration camp inmates.
Subsequently it was transformed into a luxury hotel.

The Monnaie de Paris (Paris Mint) produces coins and
medals, and has a great collection of ancient coins. This
beautiful French Neoclassical building was constructed in
the latter Eighteenth Century. It is open to the public but
does not furnish samples.

When you get hungry you might consider the historic
Cremerie-Restaurant Polidor, which hasn’t changed its name,
interior, or cooking style for over one hundred years. Most
patrons sit at shared tables so you may get a chance to
converse with local students, especially if your French is
good. Former diners include Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce,
and Jack Kerouac as well as major French writers.

You may remember from your high school French that Pont
Neuf means new bridge. The Parisian Pont Neuf is the oldest
bridge across the Seine River. It crosses the western end
of the Ile de la Cite linking Paris’s Left and Right Banks.
Construction began in 1578 and was completed a mere 41
years later, in part because of the Wars of Religion. The
original wooden pilings supporting the foundations still
remain. Unlike previous Parisian bridges this one didn’t
support houses, but did have sidewalks protecting
pedestrians from mud and horses. For centuries the homeless
have slept under its arches, despite its interdiction, in
all fairness to both rich and poor. If you are a statue
lover be sure to see the bronze statue of Henri IV,
destroyed during the French Revolution but rebuilt
afterwards using bronze from statues of Napoleon.

Saint-Sulpice is the second largest church in Paris,
smaller than its well-known rival Notre Dame de Paris. This
church, built from 1646 to 1732 and beyond replaces a
Thirteenth Century Romanesque church. Some say that its two
towers are mismatched; why not take a look to see for
yourself? It is home to a great organ. Saint-Sulpice Church
has hosted life cycle events of some famous French people;
for example the baptism of Charles Baudelaire and the
Marquis de Sade, and the marriage of Victor Hugo and Adele
Foucher. Saint-Sulpice has a huge sundial that helped to
determine Easter’s calendar date. This scientific
instrument may well have saved the church from destruction
during the French Revolution. Saint-Sulpice is a featured
location in the novel The Da Vinci Code. But the church
scenes of this teak furniture movie were not filmed on location.

Of course you don’t want to be in Paris without sampling
fine French wine and food. In my article I Love French Wine
and Food ‘ A Red Cotes du Rhone I reviewed such a wine and
suggested a sample menu: Start with Foie Gras de Canard
(Duck Liver Pate). For your second course savour Caillette
(Pork-Liver Meat Loaf). And for dessert indulge yourself
with Sorbet and fresh fruit. Your Parisian
sommelier will be happy to suggest
appropriate wines to accompany each course.

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Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on
computers and the Internet, but he prefers drinking fine
Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and
people. He knows about dieting but now eats and drinks what
he wants, in moderation. He teaches classes in computers at
an Ontario French-language community college. Visit his
Italian travel website http://www.travelitalytravel.com
which focuses on local wine and food.